My First Day in Stockholm (an Expresso House!)

Sweden banned coffee five times and now drinks more of it than almost anyone. How fika works, what to eat with it, and the rules nobody writes down.

Plan a Uppsala day trip from Stockholm with the university, cathedral, castle, botanical gardens, and royal burial mounds at Gamla Uppsala.

I landed on a Sunday evening and went walking through a dark, closed-up Stockholm. My first impression of Sweden: simple sophistication.